DOUBLE WHAMMY - ORECCHIETTE WITH PUMPKIN, NDUJA AND FLAT LEAF PARSLEY / BRAISE OF LAMB WITH SHERRY AND WEE CARROTS / POTATO AND SWISS CHARD DAUPHINOIS / RHUBARB CLAFOUTIS
Happy Sunday!
I’ve been off the radar this week - which means that this newsletter has TWICE as much content! I’m up in Germany where it’s spargel (asparagus) season at the moment. This is no trifling matter. The Germans take their spargel VERY seriously and I’ve been subsisting largely on the stuff because the quality is unbelievable. I tend to keep things simple so it’s usually just a bit of some sort of buttery sauce (hollandaise or Béarnaise if I can be bothered), or just melted butter, or, straight from the pot after a quick blanch, standing over the stove, because it is honestly that delicious.
But I’m going to stop right here because I’m mindful of the fact that I’m writing for a predominantly New Zealand audience and don’t want to wax lyrical too much about all the European summer produce that you can’t get your mitts on at the moment. I’m not that cruel. But do feel free to write in and let me know if you’d like me to dedicate a little chunk of the newsletter on what I’m grazing on up here, because I know that there can be some appeal in living vicariously.
Anyway. It’s regular Sunday programming from now on. And with this double whammy, we have a bit of a mixed narrative.
The pumpkin and nduja idea may sound a little hoity toity, but it’s a bloody fantastic way of using up leftover pumpkin or sweet potato. It’s nice to see nduja springing up everywhere now; it’s a very good little fridge staple for when a spicy, piggy kick is in order. In twenty minutes or so, you have a surprisingly simple, and absolutely scrumptious little recipe.
I know that by the middle of winter, it’s easy to end up a little jaded over all the slow cooked business, gravies and reductions and rich sauces. It can get a bit much.
So I thought a light, herby, gentle braise of lamb, with a broth that steadies rather than smothers, is welcome. In any season really. Use sherry or madeira if you have it, otherwise, any kind of sweet wine will do. Somehow, in spite of the sweetness, or perhaps because of it, the lamb, although it is cooked to the point of melting, retains a lovely and delicate, uncloying quality.
If you are in the throes of winter down in the Southern Hemisphere, this is perfect opportunity to absolutely go for it with the carbs. The dauphinois below is a pretty decent match. Or you could whip up some parmesan-rich, buttery, herby wet polenta (bravely seasoned), or smooth, creamy mashed spud.
Another idea that I feel is somewhat underrated (and definitely deserving of it’s own article one of these days), are peeled floury potatoes simmered in chicken stock until they are well cooked, then drained of most of their liquid and folded together with a bit of spinach, flat leaf parsley and a blob of butter. Sounds a bit boarding school, I know. Just try it and see.
I couldn’t not put a sweet treat in, and a proper clafoutis absolutely seduces. If you’re not locked in a spoon duel to the death over some last little morsel, you’re doing it wrong. The one in the photo lasted about four minutes, amidst moans of pleasure as we annihilated it. Like a crepe batter, it does it good to let it rest awhile - a couple of hours, or overnight, if you have the patience - but if you’re like me, you’ll want pudding straight away - in which case just bake it immediately. And use whatever fruit that appeals and is in season - or you could even spoon dabs of good jam over the top.
Have a lovely Sunday, wherever you might be. And, of course, happy cooking!
S xx